On a gas appliance, the phone call has two jobs — and the parts one comes second.
A gas smell or a sounding carbon monoxide alarm goes to your gas utility and emergency services, not to us — and we'll say so immediately rather than book you a visit.
Most people don't think to say which fuel, because it's simply "the gas cooker." But an igniter, a valve, or an injector set for the wrong fuel is the wrong part — and an appliance running on the wrong gas is a combustion problem by definition.
Prime Appliance Repair diagnoses and repairs gas appliances across Lexington — ranges, cooktops, ovens, and dryers.
Click Here To Call Number(833) 435-3480If you can smell gas right now, read the next section and nothing else.
Everyone out immediately, then call emergency services from outside. Don't go back in to open windows or investigate, and don't dismiss an alarm as faulty.
We attend once the site has been confirmed safe. That's the correct order, and any gas engineer will tell you the same.
Gas smell, a sounding CO alarm, or symptoms that ease when people leave the building — those are utility and emergency service calls first. We'll tell you that on the phone rather than booking a visit.
The most commonly omitted answer on this appliance, and it changes the parts entirely. See below.
If you're not sure: the rating plate says, and so does whether you have a mains gas supply or a bottle or tank.A gas cooktop, a built-in gas oven, a freestanding range, or a gas dryer — and whether a range is dual fuel, since the oven and the hob may run on different energy sources entirely.
Where to find it: around the door frame on an oven, on the back or underside of a cooktop, or inside the door opening on a dryer.
Photograph it rather than reading it out.Blue and steady, yellow and lazy, lifting off the burner, uneven around the ring, or clicking without lighting. Each points somewhere different — see below.
And on a range: which parts still work. The hob but not the oven, the oven but not the grill, one burner but not the others — each combination isolates a circuit.
Photograph the display if there's a code.
And tell us what changed — a cleaning cycle run recently, a spill or boil-over, moisture after cleaning a hob, a power cut, or recent work near the appliance.
This is worth its own section because it's the single most frequent reason a gas visit needs a second trip.
Appliances are configured for one fuel or the other. Natural gas and LPG burn at different pressures and require different injector sizes and settings — so burners, injector sets, and some valve components are fuel-specific.
Which means "my gas hob won't light" describes two different parts lists depending on an answer most people don't volunteer.
An appliance running on the fuel it wasn't set up for burns incorrectly — which is a combustion problem, not just a performance one. If an appliance was moved from a property with a different supply, or converted at some point, tell us. It's occasionally the whole fault.
The rating plate, which states the fuel the appliance is configured for. And practically: a mains supply means natural gas; a bottle or an external tank means LPG.
A thirty-second look, and it narrows both the safety question and the parts list.
That's how it should look.
That's incomplete combustion, which is what produces carbon monoxide. Tell us — it's frequently a simple fix like blocked ports or a misaligned cap, but it isn't something to keep cooking on.
Soot on pans or around the appliance points the same way.Almost always blocked ports or a misaligned cap — and both are free to try before we arrive.
That's the flame supervision device doing its job — a thermocouple or flame sensor that holds the gas valve open only while it detects a flame. Routine repair, commonly carried, and never to be bypassed.
After cleaning, let the igniter area dry fully. Then cap alignment and blocked ports. If those are clear, it's the igniter or spark module.
The classic weak-igniter symptom — it can no longer draw enough current to open the gas valve. One of the most common gas oven repairs, and commonly carried.
Manufacturers run production changes mid-model, and sell the same model name across fuel types and configurations. Igniters, valves, thermostats, injector sets, and control boards all vary within what looks like one appliance.
A technician who knows "it's a gas range, about eight years old" is choosing from a list. One with your serial number is looking at one part number.
It also settles availability up front — on an older appliance, whether the part still exists is frequently the whole answer, and that's far better established on the phone.
Photograph the plate before you call.
Frequently ordered rather than carried.
Model-specific and rarely stocked.
Converting an appliance between natural gas and LPG requires the correct injector set and adjustment — and that's arranged rather than improvised.
Beyond a component replacement.
On older or discontinued appliances.
If the utility has isolated the supply, we attend once that's resolved.
What we will always do: tell you which of those you're in before we start.
If any of those explains it, we'll tell you on the phone.
If you smell gas, or a CO alarm has sounded.
The flame is persistently yellow or lazy, there's soot on pans or around the appliance, there's an unusual smell when it runs, or anyone is getting symptoms that ease when they leave the building.
A gas oven is taking longer and longer to light, a burner won't stay lit, the flame ring is uneven, or a gas dryer has stopped heating.
An igniter clicks a few extra times but lights reliably, or a lamp or timer has failed and the flame is otherwise correct.
And have the six ready — especially natural gas or LPG, and the rating plate.
A detector is the only reliable way to know it's present.
The symptoms are easy to mistake for something else: headache, nausea, dizziness, tiredness, breathlessness, confusion, and flu-like feelings without a temperature.
Symptoms that ease when you leave the building and return when you go back in. If more than one person — or a pet — is affected at the same time, treat that as a serious warning. Everyone out, call emergency services from outside, and seek medical advice.
Prevention:
Click Here To Call Number(833) 435-3480Cap alignment and blocked ports first — both free. Then the igniter or spark module. A burner that goes out on release is the thermocouple or flame sensor — commonly carried. A yellow or sooty flame means stop using that burner.
The oven and the hob have separate burners and separate igniters, so one working while the other doesn't is normal and useful information. An igniter that glows but never lights is the classic gas oven fault — commonly carried. An oven running cool could be the igniter, valve, thermostat, or sensor — or a door seal, worth ruling out first with the paper test.
It tumbles but doesn't heat: the gas supply valve, then the igniter, flame sensor, or valve coils — all commonly carried.
A blown thermal fuse is a symptom, not the fault — restricted airflow makes a dryer overheat and the fuse does its job. On a gas dryer, restricted venting is a combustion issue as well as a performance one, and a gas dryer must always vent outside.
Gas work is regulated, and requirements vary by jurisdiction — but anyone working on the gas side of an appliance should hold the appropriate qualification, and you're entitled to ask.
An electrical repair done badly stops working. A gas repair done badly can keep working while producing something nobody can smell.
Which is why a repair should end with combustion verified rather than with the burner lighting. Lighting proves the ignition system works — it says nothing about how completely the gas is burning.
And it can matter for cover too — warranty terms frequently require qualified work.
Clean burner caps and ports, dry an igniter area, clear a dryer vent, and check a breaker.
Gas connections, valve adjustments, burner tuning, fuel conversions, or anything affecting combustion.
Some calls end with "phone your gas utility, not us" — and that's the correct answer, given immediately.
It's the most commonly omitted answer on this appliance, and it changes injectors, settings, and part numbers.
Because it narrows both the safety question and the parts list in thirty seconds.
Since the oven and the hob are separate circuits.
Rather than confirming the burner lights.
Because a burner that won't stay lit is that system doing its job.
We service gas cooking equipment for cafés, restaurants, and small food businesses across Lexington.
First-visit fixes matter more here, because equipment down during service is lost trading — which is why we keep model and fuel details on file for equipment we service regularly and carry the parts those appliances actually fail on.
A commercial kitchen's gas equipment is designed to work with its extraction system, and a failing extraction system becomes a combustion and CO issue rather than a comfort one.
Commercial equipment carries inspection and certification requirements that domestic appliances don't, with documentation part of the job.
And usage compresses everything — burners, thermocouples, and igniters that last years domestically wear in months.
Click Here To Call Number(833) 435-3480The variables, so you can see where a number comes from.
You'll have the repair price before work begins, and a realistic replacement figure alongside it where that comparison matters.
Prime Appliance Repair proudly serves Lexington, OH and the surrounding neighborhoods, repairing domestic and commercial gas appliances throughout the area. Unsure whether you're in range? Call and ask.
Click Here To Call Number(833) 435-3480Whether it's natural gas or LPG, what type of appliance it is, a photo of the rating plate, and what the flame is doing. The fuel type alone changes the parts list, and it's the answer people most often leave out.
Because appliances are configured for one or the other — different injector sizes and settings — so burners, injector sets, and some valve components are fuel-specific. And an appliance running on the wrong fuel burns incorrectly, which is a combustion issue rather than just a performance one.
Get everyone out. Don't operate switches, don't use a phone indoors, and don't light anything. Turn the gas off at the meter or appliance valve only if you can do so safely on your way out, then call your gas utility and 911 from outside.
Stop using that burner and call. A persistently yellow flame means incomplete combustion, which is what produces carbon monoxide. It's frequently a simple fix — blocked ports or a misaligned cap — but not something to keep cooking on.
Check for moisture first, especially after cleaning. Then reseat the burner cap squarely and clear the ports. All free. If those are clear, it's usually the igniter or spark module — commonly carried.
That's the flame supervision device working, not failing — a thermocouple or flame sensor holding the valve open only while it detects a flame. Routine repair, commonly carried, and never to be bypassed.
The classic weak-igniter symptom — it can no longer draw enough current to open the gas valve. One of the most common gas oven repairs, and commonly carried.
Check the gas supply valve, then the vent path. A blown thermal fuse is usually a symptom of restricted airflow — replacing it without clearing the vent means it blows again, and on a gas dryer restricted venting is a combustion issue too.
Headache, nausea, dizziness, tiredness, breathlessness, and flu-like feelings without a temperature. The key tell is symptoms that improve when you leave the building and return when you go back in.
Yes — they have a stated end-of-life, and an expired alarm looks exactly like a working one. Check the date and replace it when due.
Only with the correct injector set and proper adjustment, by a qualified person. It isn't a field improvisation, and it's arranged rather than done on the spot.
With combustion verified, not just with the burner lighting. Lighting proves the ignition system works — it says nothing about how completely the gas is burning.
Whether anyone's at risk, whether it's natural gas or LPG, and what the flame is doing. Three answers — the first decides whether we should be coming at all, and the second decides what comes with us.
Prime Appliance Repair triages safety before parts, asks the question most people leave out, and verifies combustion before leaving.
Click Here To Call Number(833) 435-3480